Science
Making sense of shallow-water waves with advanced statistics
When ocean waves reach shallow water, their complex interactions can produce lower-frequency infragravity waves .
AI Summary
When ocean waves enter shallow water, their interactions generate lower‑frequency infragravity waves. These infragravity waves influence the shape of coastlines and, in turn, are influenced by that shape. The waves play a role in coastal erosion, sediment deposition, and the degradation of coastal ice.
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